There is a moment each year, usually in late September, when the light turns lower and more golden, and a man’s wardrobe seems to ask for something different. The crisp whites and pale blues of summer lose their appeal. What the season calls for is depth, warmth and texture, and above all a palette borrowed from the landscape itself: the rust of fallen beech leaves, the ochre of stubble fields, the deep green of moss and the brown of turned soil.