8 Details of a Quality Made to Measure Suit
There are a lot of discussions regarding the importance of fit and fabric when choosing a new Suit. Today, however, we will focus on the ever so vital details.
Today’s trends lean to a more natural look. The goal is not to re-shape our bodies as in the eighties using stiff and built up shoulder pads.
I would consider the Neapolitan shoulder the hottest style right now. Using less or no padding, the shoulder gets softer and the feel more natural.
There are usually two types of shoulders associated with the Neapolitan shoulder. The “Spalla Camicia”, translated into shirt shoulder and is exactly what it sounds like. The tailor uses the same techniques as when attaching a sleeve on a dress shirt. The second version is the one on the picture. The style is called “Con Rollino” with its significant roll on the shoulder bend. This technique is the most common one used.
To achieve the characteristic pleats on the top arm, the sleeve is made slightly bigger than the jackets armhole resulting in some wavy folds when attaching. This is usually considered a quality mark since it has to be done by hand.
Traditionally the peaked lapel was seen on formal garments such as the Morning Coat or the Tailcoat. Today, however, in addition to formal events it has been more widely spread and even seen on more casual wear.
Most double-breasted suits have this kind of lapel. One of the reasons is that a double-breasted jacket needs a wider lapel, which the peaked one naturally allows.
A fun fact is that a peaked lapel will induce a lengthening effect by moving the eyes upward towards the shoulders.
Most “of the rack” sleeves have closed buttonholes. The idea is to be able to adjust the sleeve length subsequently. Therefore openable button-holes are a proof of quality and often disclose the jacket as Made to Measure or Tailor Made. Sometimes the wearer flaunts this feature by forgetting to close the last button.
Historically, the purpose of the detail was to facilitate for hand-washing. It is also known as “Surgeons Cuffs” originating from the need for military surgeons to unbutton and roll up their sleeves in the field.
On my MTM suit, I have chosen to have the button-holes handmade. I believe the rustic quality of the hand-sewn stitching gives character to the garment and reflects traditional craftsmanship.
“It is also known as “Surgeons Cuffs” originating from the need for military surgeons to unbutton and roll up their sleeves in field.”
I believe that pattern matching the fabric correctly is one of the most important procedures when creating a garment. A suit is made up of several cuts. If the fabric is plaid or striped the tailor needs to match the different cuts so that the parts converge nicely.
Garments with good pattern matching are considered more exclusive since it takes a skilled tailor and the fabric requirement is greater.
In my opinion, badly made matching is distractive for the eye. It should be done properly as you can see in the breast pocket to the left.
Based on an empirical study of the trends during the week of Pitti in Florence. I have noticed that a lot of people are dismissing the traditional belt loops for the more sleek side-adjusters.
The feature is common on Tailor Made or Made to Measure garments since the need to adjust the fit of the waist is less. It takes away the necessity for a belt and looks more natural with braces.
Historically the back vents on the jacket were created for a more comfortable experience on horseback. Nowadays the purpose is rather to achieve a good fit.
I prefer two vents on my double-breasted jackets since I believe it corresponds better with the style. However, I sometimes go for a single vent on my tuxedo-jackets.
On my latest contribution to the wardrobe, i chose to have a strap between the vents. Since the jacket is unconstructed and unlined it helps the garment hold together. And it looks great.
“Trousers with side-adjusters combined with a higher waist and front pleats seems like the latest must-haves in Florence.”
Continuing on our empirical journey. Trousers with side-adjusters combined with a higher waist and front pleats seem like the latest must-haves in Florence.
I would almost say pleats are mandatory if you are in search of a higher waist. The extra width given by the pleats is needed while seated but still gives a sleek look standing.
The ultimate personalization of the jacket must be the monogram. This makes the quality suit personal and appoints the jacket to you as a single wearer.
Usually, the Initials are being used. However, i decided to go a little bit further. I chose to match it with the Colombia stitching trim on the inside. As you can see in the left, lower corner.
This was a short presentation of what I think is important details when choosing a Quality Made to Measure Suit. Of course, the quality in the garment is greatly related to the type of construction and fabric. These areas I would like to come back to in the future.
I believe in being original. Clothes should be worn in symbiosis with your personality and character.
Thank you and until next time.
Wear it Weird.
We Thank Nate at Suit Up Weird for the contribution.
If you are interested in our Made To Measure Service based in Malmö, Sweden