4th generation shoe makers
Carmina Shoemaker is based on the island of Mallorca and has been making Goodyear welted shoes since 1866. The brand was revamped and relaunched about twenty years ago and has since then become well established with in the menswear scene. Their creations has a slender curviness to be distinct from the slightly chunky English footwear but still not embellished enough to be delicate Italian. A formula that has proven to be a real sweet-spot for many footwear enthusiast all over the world.
The real beauty of Carmina
When speaking of quality shoes, the cognoscenti have in the past referred to Northamptonshire, England, parts of Italy, France and the USA. Over the years, however, the understanding of where good shoes are made has come to include new countries as well. The age of social media and vast globalisation has brought some light on new producers across the globe. One of those countries is Spain and the reason is spelled Carmina.
Goodyear welt construction involves many elements, all of which takes time, skill and precious materials/machinery. The actual word goodyear welted has to do with that the shoe is stitched rather than glued when sealed at any point.
The Carmina process includes in short 11 steps to reach finished shoe, where each step has several smaller steps. In total the shoe goes through closer to 220 steps becoming a class A goodyear welted shoe.
The first few step includes the last which is made from a wooden mould generating the fit of the shoe, the design of pattern and brogue-stitching as well as material choosing. Carmina source only from top suppliers and store them carefully at even temperature for best cutting possibilities.
The cutting of the leather, lining and reinforcements pieces are always done by hand. After it is stitched with a cotton and acrylic thread to ensure that the back stitch is a tense as possible guaranteeing longevity.
In a semi-manual process the leather is assembled on to the last and left for days to mould perfectly with the fit of the last. It is important to give the shoe proper amount of time so that the mould is permanent which ensures durability for whoever is gonna wear it after.
After the moulding process the actual welt process is carried out, when the connection between the sole and upper shoe is sewn together. The gap between them is filled with cork compound or ground sole leather. This centimeter thick layer with malleable properties enables the future wearers foot to make its own natural mould. Important for comfort and ergonomic purposes.
The edges of the goodyear welt is then trimmed before the heel is nailed on to the shoe and it goes to the finishing step of the process where it is waxed, painted and polished into a beautiful shoe we all want.